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  1. #11
    Super Moderator MJC's Avatar
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    I think you can find something wrong with any new bike. But for some reason Honda seems to think that suspension is an afterthought or something for people who weigh 150 lb. I would not buy any bike that that simply just by sitting on it you can see the suspension bottom out. Plus the cost to fix
    The problem is about $2,000 installed and you have to bring your bike to Georgia. Just something to think about.

  2. #12
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    MJC - The CTX suspension is about the same. It's fine for a light person, but for heavier people or two up it's useless/dangerous when the roads get rough. At 300 lbs ride weight, there was about only 1 inch of available travel left on the suspension, both front and back. The bike would ride smooth on smooth pavement, but would constantly bottom out on anything else. It was close to 2 grand (give or take) to make the suspension adequate for every day travel, and much of that was doing the work myself. In terms of results, it was money well spent. The replacement rear shock also has more travel. I'm not sure how much more, but enough to make a difference. Anyway, the ride is now the least problem with the bike. Keep in mind that I changed my seat too.

    I don't have any other bike to compare to, but I've heard some Harley riders complain how painful some of those bikes are during long rides. Of course the seat could have been the issue with those, but my neighbor had 3 different Harley's and he complained about the ride of everyone of them. I only used Harley as an example because you would think that heavy bikes like that would always ride nicer compared to a lightweight like the CTX.

    You all know the rest...

  3. #13
    Super Moderator MJC's Avatar
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    Steven , I agree and disagree. With the CTX the suspension is fine unless you add bags and other mods then if you put the bolt or nut all the way down it will be okay. If you any heavier then 200 lb then it's not so great. But that's all good for a bike that is $8500. On a Goldwing at 29 k you should not have to change any suspension before even driving it off the showroom floor.

    Steve do you have your old rear shock with the
    Gonzo mod I would like to try it so if you do PM me,
    btw, still planning on going to IN this year.
    MJ

  4. #14
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    FWIW, the stock CTX rear damper has about 40 mm (1.575") stroke with a claimed 4.3" of travel and the NC-spec HO 070 Ohlins is 56.5 mm stroke. The overall leverage ratio is roughly 2.7:1 which is on the higher side but not outside the normal range. There have been plenty of MXers with 3:1 (4" damper travel, 12" wheel travel).

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJC View Post
    Steven , I agree and disagree. With the CTX the suspension is fine unless you add bags and other mods then if you put the bolt or nut all the way down it will be okay. If you any heavier then 200 lb then it's not so great. But that's all good for a bike that is $8500. On a Goldwing at 29 k you should not have to change any suspension before even driving it off the showroom floor.

    Steve do you have your old rear shock with the
    Gonzo mod I would like to try it so if you do PM me,
    btw, still planning on going to IN this year.
    MJ
    Actually I did the full Gonzo mod on the original shock with mixed results. Because of the trimmed bumper guard I found the bike pogoing up and down on certain bumps. It lacked control. The shim adjustment went better for adjusting the sag, but that didn't help when it came to control during harder bumps. The oem shock was just too anemic for heavier riders. If you're going with the oem I suggest the shims to get your sag where it needs to be, and then just leave it alone.

    Mike, the shock with the full mod, I threw away, I figured it was ruined. I had then bought another shock and then just did the shim adjustment. I still have that shock but kept it in the event that someday I might need a spare if I ever have my other one rebuilt. You only need the shims to get your sag set, I don't recommend cutting the bumper. It would be far cheaper to buy some washers/shims than pay to have a shock mailed back and forth.

    I believe Ponydrvr did the full mod with good results. A second opinion wouldn't hurt.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator MJC's Avatar
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    Thank you Steven, for the info. I guess what I want to do is adjust the sag so I can do the front forks. So I will just use the wahers in the rear and be happy with that.

    I was looking for info on the Gonzo Ponydrvr Mod from heavier riders. At this time, all I can do is adjust the sag in the rear and install the adjustable (turn down bolt type) things that go on top of forks. To adjust front sag. Hope I do not get the pogo thing going...lol. I am saving up for all new aftermarkget parts, or maybe a better bike...

    mj

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJC View Post
    Thank you Steven, for the info. I guess what I want to do is adjust the sag so I can do the front forks. So I will just use the wahers in the rear and be happy with that.

    I was looking for info on the Gonzo Ponydrvr Mod from heavier riders. At this time, all I can do is adjust the sag in the rear and install the adjustable (turn down bolt type) things that go on top of forks. To adjust front sag. Hope I do not get the pogo thing going...lol. I am saving up for all new aftermarkget parts, or maybe a better bike...

    mj
    Getting the sag set front and back is about all you can do with the oem and it does help quite a bit under most road conditions. The sharp hard bumps/dips will continue to be an issue. Even my fancy dancy after market shock isn't perfect, but it is a step in the right direction and, in my mind, money well spent.

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  9. #18
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    You can set sag all you want, but if the spring rate is wrong for the load then it is wrong and sag isn't going to be more than a small band-aid on a wound that never heals. Spring preload adjustment is for making minor changes in ride height when there are modest changes in load, it doesn't replace getting the proper rate spring.

    An advantage of the classic twin-damper setup is the dampers are easy to access and the springs are light enough that you may not need any special tools/compressors to change them to something more suitable. The CTX isn't as easy to deal with, but if you want a better ride then you'll need to begin the process of removing the motorcycle from the damper so you can change the spring (and probably the damper while you are at it).

    cheers,
    Michael

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  11. #19
    Senior Member
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    I weigh 200 lbs. with full gear.
    I did the gonzo mod with no change in sag. Spring at full height, just enough turns on the collar to see two threads above it.
    Not a Cadillac ride but in about 10,000 miles of riding, I only bottomed out 2 or 3 times, on some nasty roads.
    Setting sag reduces shock travel and I did not want that.
    I actually thought the ride was decent after the mod.
    '14N
    keep your word, no excuses

  12. #20
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    Apple Valley, MN
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    So do you turn the nut clockwise to get a softer ride?

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