Won't start...#@*///

Spirit 4

Member
I haven't been on the bike for a couple weeks and on this fabulous 73rd birthday, it would not start! I discovered a clicking sound under the left rear seat area, which appears to be near the "turn signal relay" and then I noticed that the dash had lights but had no digital info displayed. BTW the turn signals aren't working either! I checked all of the fuses for continuity, but now trying to figure out what possible relay isn't working. Is there anyone out there that has had a similar experience? New battery installed before last ride and it still shows 12volts Plus!:(:(
 

12MANY

New member
I haven't been on the bike for a couple weeks and on this fabulous 73rd birthday, it would not start! I discovered a clicking sound under the left rear seat area, which appears to be near the "turn signal relay" and then I noticed that the dash had lights but had no digital info displayed. BTW the turn signals aren't working either! I checked all of the fuses for continuity, but now trying to figure out what possible relay isn't working. Is there anyone out there that has had a similar experience? New battery installed before last ride and it still shows 12volts Plus!:(:(

It sounds to me like the battery is low. If the battery is new it should have at least a resting voltage of around 12.8 volts. As soon as you turn the key on the headlight and possibly the fuel pump really puts a load on the batt when the bike is not running. Check the voltage with the key on and see what the available voltage is for the starter to use and you might find that it is at under 12 volts. The first thing I would do is fully charge the battery then diagnose from there. I rode my bike around 8 hours ago and have a batt monitor on it and it is sitting at 12.8 volts and also the batt is 1.5 yrs old. When I turn the key on it reads 12.1 volts and starts at that voltage just fine. I keep the bike in my garage and only ride on the weekends but have always kept a battery tender on it during the week since I installed the batt to keep a full charge on it at all times. I hope this helps.
 

Spirit 4

Member
The voltage tested out at 12.8, but the clicking from the rear left panel where the turn signal relay is located makes me think that might be the source of the problem. However, I can't believe that could shutdown the instrument cluster and prevent the bike from starting, OMG! Regardless, I am pulling it out today and will replace on Monday! Thanks!
 

12MANY

New member
You just recently replaced the battery so the cables may be loose like Steven said. Check all of the easy things first. Fuse 10 on the schematic is for the clock/turn so they are on the same circuit. The signal relay is powered when the key is on but should not be clicking unless the signal switch is telling it to latch or it is intermittently getting power on and off due to a loose connection also I don’t think it would prevent the starter motor from turning over.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
I got a new battery a few weeks ago. Installed it, reading was 12.70 started up the bike all was good. I week later I go to start it and clicking sound. I forgot to turn off the radio (line on switch to hold memorry of pre-set stations, ok to leave on when riding but not over night). I jumped the bike using my car battery (do not turn on car) and the bike started. The battery with the bike running was only 11.20. Once I let the bike run I turn off the bike, hooked it up to the battery tender. After 2 days of charging the bike would not start. Battery store said it had gone to low to recharge and battery was no good. The battery tender says in the book that it will not charge a battery lower then 11. So I put it on a fast charger I use for car batterys. Still NG. I killed it.
I got a new battery, put it on the battery tender to fully charged. Installed it in the bike. Bike starts and runs fine. Now I make sure to turn everything off and hook up the battery tender if I know the bike will be sitting over a week or more.

I do not know if my story is the same has yours but just get a new battery. That clicking sound is from the battery being too low.
I do not know much about batterys but I sure do know how to kill them, lol.
hope my story helps someone, mj
Two things I learned 1, charge new battery to full, before installing.
2, battery tender will not charge a battery lower then 11.
#3, (may not be true) the more you ride the longer your battery will last. That is the story I tell my wife. I got to go riding to save the battery........
 

Glen e

New member
It's true that a battery tender or any real battery charger will not charge a dead flat battery below 11. But there is a way to revive it. You need to hook up a completely fresh 100% charged battery positive to positive negative to negative and let the two equalize overnight. A daily driver car battery will work fine. Once the bad battery is above about 10.0 you can charge it. I've done it countless times on boats and bikes.
 
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12MANY

New member
It's true that a battery tender or any real battery charger will not charge a dead flat battery below 11. But there is a way to revive it. You need to hook up a completely fresh 100% charged battery positive to positive negative to negative and let the two equalize overnight. A daily driver car battery will work fine. Once the bad battery is above about 10.0 you can charge it. I've done it countless times on boats and bikes.

Near the end of the video he claims that if the new tech L ion batteries drop below 11 volts they can be permanently damaged and not recovered . I think I will save the 30% $ more in price and lug the extra 5 lbs of weight of the old school batteries around. At least I think you could jump start it to get you home and a one time drain below 11 volts is not going to destroy it.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/lowdown-on-lithium-ion-motorcycle-batteries-mc-garage-video
 

Glen e

New member
I don't believe anybody up above mentioned anything about lithium ion, yes, Ions wont, agm's and conventional, Which is what our bike uses, will equalize. That's why I don't like lithium. I am specifically speaking about how to get a battery tender to work if you go below 11. Nothing more.
 
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Spirit 4

Member
Comedy of errors!!

I have resolved my issue with relays, instrumentation, and starter. It was the freaking battery, as many of you suggested! I am not sure if I miss read the voltage meter, but it was my new April 2018 battery. After spending several hours trying to resolve the problem on Monday I decided to give it a rest and come back on Tuesday with a new attitude and a full-on attack of the problem. I printed the electrical chart on page 542 of the service manual and headed out to solve the problem! The first thing I did was turn the key on and when I did, I noticed the intensity of the headlight was a lot less than the day before. With that revelation I decided to bring out my True Value battery pack and see if I could jump start the bike. As soon as I made the jumper connection, the dash came to life and moments later the bike roared to life! At that point I decided a good over night charge would put the whole problem to rest. I proceeded to put the Delran Tender on, but couldn’t understand why the light kept blinking red. I quickly discovered that a 7.5-amp inline fuse was missing and now I realize that the charger had not been working all winter, yikes! I put a new fuse in and charged the battery overnight. The next morning, it was time to clean and ride! I rolled her out turned on the key while getting my gear on and when I mounted the bike and hit the starter, the battery was dead again!! I jump started it again and headed for the battery store. They were bewildered by my story but replaced the battery and sent me on my way. Lesson learned, try the easiest solution first!
 

randy1149

New member
Battery longevity can be attained by putting a tender on every time you put the bike away even if it's only 1 night. Sulfation occurs in batteries when voltage is below its max and lead acid batteries loose charge 1% a day.
 
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