driving lights and radio

MJC

Super Moderator
I have had a radio hooked up for two years. In the past 6 weeks or so I hooked up driving lights. The lights are wired, + from battery to switch, to + to each light, - goes from lights to - on the battery. Lights work fine. Today I had the Radio on and when I put the lights on the radio (sound) goes lower. Lights stay the same just the radio goes lower, turn off the lights and the radio goes back (louder). So what is wrong? Are the lights just too much?
 

mtvic

Member
How old is you battery? You don't list year and model in your signature line. Since going straight to battery are you even running bike when you turned them on? Probably starting to loose ability to hold full charge.
 

ponydrvr

Member
It sounds like a wonky splice connection on the line feeding them. This would cause a series resistance resulting in a voltage drop causing in the issues. Depending on where you obtained power, the wire size might be to small for the load causing this.

A DC load is generally measured in watts. To determine wire size you need to divide the operating wattage by the required voltage (12vdc) to determine the current required to operate. Then using the current (amps) requirements you can select the minimum wire size to carry the load. If both loads are running from the same feed, then add the amps together for proper wire size determination.

I hope this helps.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
I have a 2014 DCT Fairing 700. Battery is new, installed 3/18. The lights and harness and water proof switch are the same as MTVIC used. I assumed that the wires are the right size, for the lights.
The radio is on a switch that runs to battery, the UBS/Charger with switch (switched uint installed in fake tank box), this powers the GPS with the UBS used if the phone needs to be charged (not used), the driving lights go from the battery to the switch then the lights, i also have rear top case (box) that runs lights (turn, brake, stop) off the rear wiring harness using a flat 4 way plug. There is also a battery charge plug (used over winter to battery charger). Every thing (not the top case lights) go or get power from the battery.

The battery, + side, has wire to bike, power line with fuse to Radio, power line with fuse to USB charger with switch with fuse, power line to front driving lights with fuse and line to battery charger with fuse. All the - (neg) go to the battery. Only thing is, I changed the Radio antenna to the top box and did not ground the antenna. Not sure if that needs to be done.

Maybe I need a fuse block? Or now the radio needs thicker wires? Or should I just start over and use thicker wires (like the trailer 4 way plug thick wires).
 

12MANY

New member
On page 1-11 of the service manual it says alternator capacity is .45kw/5,000 rpm which is 450 watts. Can only guess what it would be at idle speed or 1200 rpm but would probably be much less. You may be stressing the alternator where it is struggling to replenish the battery based on the draw. Add up how many watts the stereo and lights use. Take a meter and hook it to the battery and check the voltage. Start the bike check, turn on stereo check then turn on lights check. If at anytime the voltage drops too much stop. Be careful, over taxing the alternator creates heat and even though it does not blow a fuse it could fry it. Ditto on the wire size supplying the radio and lights. Too small a supply wire will present more resistance and will also stress the alternator. A high power stereo amp plus the driving lights may just be too much all running at the same time and you just ran out of available watts. I am just an amateur and hope this helps.
 

mtvic

Member
You still haven't said if this is happening without the engine running, idle speed, or higher RPMs. I've added a low amp stereo system, lights, 2.1amp usb chargers with a Smartphone and Garmin plugged in. I go through a relay and have never noticed this. Your battery should still be checked out, including load test. I've had "bad" new batteries. Happens often. If battery checks out OK, with bike idling high enough to charge the battery, try again. If still happens, I'd try unplugging rear lights and 1 at a time other drags on system before doing a complete rewire to see if you can isolate the issue.
 

12MANY

New member
You don’t mention using relays like mtvic. This may be the issue running directly through the small very low amp switches. Most accessory lighting installs I have seen always use a relay. I also agree with mtvic that doing a total rewire without knowing for sure it’s the cure would be a last resort.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
You still haven't said if this is happening without the engine running, idle speed, or higher RPMs. I've added a low amp stereo system, lights, 2.1amp usb chargers with a Smartphone and Garmin plugged in. I go through a relay and have never noticed this. Your battery should still be checked out, including load test. I've had "bad" new batteries. Happens often. If battery checks out OK, with bike idling high enough to charge the battery, try again. If still happens, I'd try unplugging rear lights and 1 at a time other drags on system before doing a complete rewire to see if you can isolate the issue.

I used a relay for the driving lights, then removed the relay, Both ways, with the bike runing, radio still goes lower. I am going to just run power to the driving lights from the battery to the lights and see if maybe it is the switch.

I will do the battery test 1st, then the driving light switch then the rear lights. Thanks for (both) your help.
 

12MANY

New member
If possible throw a set of jumper cables on the battery and power both the lights and stereo directly and you will eliminate the middle circuit, switches relays etc. If you have the same issue it’s a drawing way too many combined watts issue. If you have a moderately low watt stereo and light set up like mtvic he has proven it can be done with relays. Remember it may work without the relays but you are presenting the alternator with increased resistance through the switches and increasing the load the alternator. I am a big believer in high wattage devices like lights and stereos should always be controlled by relays. I would put both lights and stereo on a relay. Stereo amps are very sensitive to power fluctuations. Keep the faith ,you will figure it out. My philosophy is if it was built by humans there is no reason I cant figure it out.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
OK, I tested out all the wires, connections, battery, load tested, everything comes up good. I then was playing the radio using the UBS port. When I turned on the lights and everything on the bike, the radio did not go lower. So it is something in/on the lights that is interferring with the radio getting the FM signal, making the sound lower Works fine playing using the UBS port.

So is there something, maybe a filter that will fix this? I remember back in the 70"s there was something we put into the antenner port (filter) then you pluged the antenner into that. Without it you could not get some FM channels.
 

rickster

Member
Are these new lights LED's? Some of the ones being sold are notorious for creating spurious radio frequency emissions that show up as interference. (RFI) The FCC considers these lights and their drivers which cause RFI as "unintentional radiators" and while there are rules...well, you know what rules are meant for...

Are you getting static in the radio or is it only a drop in volume. While RFI can overwhelm a radio receiver and de-sensitize it causing a loss in volume, often you'll hear static. Also, RFI loves to run around on wires, so perhaps the lights are not emitting into the "air" so much, but are hanging out on your power lines. The USB connection that you successfully hooked up to probably has some RF isolation built in which would point to the interference on the lines. Lucky you...

I'd try this...hop on down to your local electronics store, or visit Amazon and buy some clip on ferrite coils to place on the radio and light power lines. They're cheap and simply clamp over your power lines with self locking snaps. See if that helps...
 
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MJC

Super Moderator
Yes the radio goes lower and there is static. So I put the ferrite coils on the power lines of the radio and the lights? Just the + side or the - too? Do I need one on the anntena cable too? I will have to order them, I think 3mm is good for the power lines and maybe 9 for the anntena cable, but not sure. Do I put the FC on bare wire or over the wire with the casing on it?
I think you are right about the interference, I moved the anntener from up front to the top case box and the anntener cable ow goes right over the battery box where the power lines are for the radio and the lights. Thank you for the info!

I will wait to order the FC until I know what size to get (over wire or on bare wire and if I put one on the anntener wire).

Thanks to everyone for the help!
BTW, I did get to ride at night and check out the driving lights. They work great, I can now see like it is daytime!
 

12MANY

New member
They snap right over the insulated wire and I don’t think they have to fit super tight. You can run both the – and + through the same one and also loop them around a couple of times for good measure. I’m not sure about the antenna. I think it is to keep the power wire from emitting interference where the antenna just receives. If there is an aftermarket stereo installer near you they probably deal with this issue all the time with the popularity of led and hid lights now days and may have them in stock in various sizes. Also any 4 wheel drive accessory dealer who sells light kits in your area may also be able to help with information.

http://betterautomotivelighting.com...ing-ferrite-coils-for-hid-and-led-headlights/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU1caDBn2U4
 

rickster

Member
mjc...I like 12MANY's suggestion to take your bike to a stereo shop. He's right...they deal with this frequently. An industrial two-way radio shop would also be a good choice.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
Thanks guys. I went to the only car stereo shop in my town. He looked at the bike, radio, lighs etc. Said all was hooked up right. He said to put the Ferrite coils, one on each light just after where the lights are mounted, one on the wires from the battery that power the lights. He did not have any in stock and said it was better to pay more for the lights and the FC would have been on the wires/lights. He also said they are not needed on the radio wires or the antener.
I asked if he could take care of this for me and he said, He would install a new wiring kit with the FC installed on the wires from the factory, cost would be $80. I passed.
So I will order the FC online and install them.
Thanks for everyones help.
 

mtvic

Member
Not sure I agree with cause due to less expensive lights. Mine were very inexpensive, around $25 and work perfect and don't have this issue. My stereo however is the BOSS made for bikes and doesn't have FM reception, only Bluetooth. If I want FM I can access it from an app like "IHeart" or "Tune in."

Does your stereo have Bluetooth? If so, did it also have this problem if you were using it?
 

rickster

Member
Not sure I agree with cause due to less expensive lights. Mine were very inexpensive, around $25 and work perfect and don't have this issue. My stereo however is the BOSS made for bikes and doesn't have FM reception, only Bluetooth. If I want FM I can access it from an app like "IHeart" or "Tune in."

Does your stereo have Bluetooth? If so, did it also have this problem if you were using it?

I'm glad that your light install was trouble free mtvic. But your experience and that of MJC could be different for a couple of reasons. The primary one is that MJC is using FM radio which occupies a VHF frequency band between 88 mhz and 108 mhz. Bluetooth like you are using is in the 2400mhz band (2.4ghz). The other reason could be that the lights are made differently. One light may cause RFI, the other may not. It depends on how the lights were made and if RFI mitigation was part of their design criteria.

That said, the first two things to look at in a case like MJC's would be power and RFI. He said that the power checked out. While it requires some expensive equipment to diagnose an interference problem directly, one way to deal with it is to put the ferrite coils on the lines and see if the problem goes away... In that case the diagnostic and the fix are the same if the coils solve the issue.

If you look in an electronics book, it will tell you that FM stands for frequency modulation. Those who have been in the radio industry and who have witnessed how mysteriously radio waves behave will tell you that FM stands for "XXXXXXX Magic".

Check this out: http://betterautomotivelighting.com...ing-ferrite-coils-for-hid-and-led-headlights/
 
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MJC

Super Moderator
Not sure I agree with cause due to less expensive lights. Mine were very inexpensive, around $25 and work perfect and don't have this issue. My stereo however is the BOSS made for bikes and doesn't have FM reception, only Bluetooth. If I want FM I can access it from an app like "IHeart" or "Tune in."

Does your stereo have Bluetooth? If so, did it also have this problem if you were using it?

On the stereo I have BT, UBS port, AM FM, BT to phone works fine, BT to speaker in my helmet for UBS works fine, to both helmet and speakers on bike. AM/FM only goes to speakers on bike not to (BT) speakers in my helmet.
The stereo works fine with BT to my GPS (to on bike speakers).
My intercom system is EJEAS-TTS, helmet mounted has bult in FM, BT to phone, and I can talk/hear upto 4 riders. I can use phone BT to Helmet and use IHeart too.
The only thing the DLights make not work right is the FM in the stereo' the FM on my EJEAS-TTS works fine with the D Lights on.
The D Lights where ? $25 I think. Switch and wires where $15.
Radio was $30 +/-, Radio holder, speakers, antena I had but about $70.
The EJEAS-TTS was $75 for two units and 4 sets of speakers and 2 mikes.
GPS was $35 on ebay. homemade cover over it.
UBS with 500+ songs on it, priceless. If the EJEAS-TTS had a UBS port I would remove the stereo unit.
If I knew how to take all the songs on the UBS and install them on my phone That would be nice too. But I have no idea how to store (or even how to find songs) for my phone. Using the app with IHeart is OK but once in the country mnts not so good.
WOW now that I listed all these things seems like a lot.....lol.
 
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