Fehling crash bars Update

MJC

Super Moderator
Hi Everyone, I have bin working on the Fehling crash bars made for the CTX 700 N to fit the fairing model ctx700 D, which I have.

Bob sold me the bars, brand new, in the box. He got them and tried to have them installed but had too much on his plate and sold them to me. Bob is working on trike-ing his ctx700.

Anyway, I got the bars, placed them on the bike and can see that NO they will not work on the ctx700 with a fairing. They hit the black part with the Honda logo on it. So I removed that part, and you guessed it they fit!

Too make the bars work on the bike and leave this part in place the fix is............
Looking at the bars, there are two points that bolt onto the bike, one lower that uses a bracket (that comes with the bars), Keep that bracket and point alone. the 2nd one bolts to the engine, leave it be, you will have to bend it a little but it will work fine.

The last point is a clamp type that is wielded to the bar, it stands about 1/2" off the bar. This is where the fix is going to be. You have to cut the 1/2" spacer between the bar and clamp and add 7/8" to it, keep the angle and spot the same. So that 1/2" space between the clamp and bar will now be 1 3/8". Once that is done, you can re-paint the area black and you will be all set. When installing start with the lowest point 1st, then let the clamp lay over the bikes frame, bend the tab a little (you may have to enlarge the bolt hole) and bolt it to the engine. Then just place the 2nd part of the clamp on and bolt a way.

If you do not want to bend the tab on the bars at the 2nd bolt, you can add a 1/2" spacer between the tab and the engine, but you will need to use a longer bolt.

Ok so that is how the Fehling crash bars made for the non-fairing model can and will fit the Fairing model.

I should tell you that I did NOT cut and wield my bars, after trying them on my bike and seeing how to make them work I am up in the air if I want to use them. Why? because I wanted to use the bars for highway pegs and wind deflectors (leather covers-lowers over them to help with the wind). But after seeing them on the bike they are too small (need higher) and not in the right place (too close to my feet).
I could add on to them (like the Police Bike with the bars that no one can get) but they need to come out more towards the front wheel to do that and after adding all the extra tubing I am not sure the Fehling bars would be a good starting point. I would only be using the mounting points, and we all know the clamp needs to be reworked for that to work.

So if you see a set of these bars on Ebay I have made up my mind...

Sorry no photos, but the mod will work.
 

randy1149

New member
Great job Mike. I'll be staying with just the rear crash bars, they give me enough protection along with the floorboards and the 2" offset that make some protection for a light fall.
 
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randy1149

New member
randy1149, I think your right about the protection with the floorboards. I just saw T-Rex now makes Frame Sliders, which a long with the rear crash bars and the floorboards would be the most protection you could get. I may check them out.
Link here to ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-Rex-Racing-2014-2015-Honda-CTX700-Frame-Sliders-Protectors-No-Cut-/291794385060?fits=Model%3ACTX700&hash=item43f04cf8a4:g:p2QAAOSwnDZUB-~W&vxp=mtr

Here's a few pix of my floorboards. Lower and back from the standard footpegs. The boards stick out enough to take the hit on a "casual" drop. The rear crashbars protect the saddle bags.
 

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BobWitte

Member
Hi Everyone, I have bin working on the Fehling crash bars made for the CTX 700 N to fit the fairing model ctx700 D, which I have.

Bob sold me the bars, brand new, in the box. He got them and tried to have them installed but had too much on his plate and sold them to me. Bob is working on trike-ing his ctx700.

Anyway, I got the bars, placed them on the bike and can see that NO they will not work on the ctx700 with a fairing. They hit the black part with the Honda logo on it. So I removed that part, and you guessed it they fit!

Too make the bars work on the bike and leave this part in place the fix is............
Looking at the bars, there are two points that bolt onto the bike, one lower that uses a bracket (that comes with the bars), Keep that bracket and point alone. the 2nd one bolts to the engine, leave it be, you will have to bend it a little but it will work fine.

The last point is a clamp type that is wielded to the bar, it stands about 1/2" off the bar. This is where the fix is going to be. You have to cut the 1/2" spacer between the bar and clamp and add 7/8" to it, keep the angle and spot the same. So that 1/2" space between the clamp and bar will now be 1 3/8". Once that is done, you can re-paint the area black and you will be all set. When installing start with the lowest point 1st, then let the clamp lay over the bikes frame, bend the tab a little (you may have to enlarge the bolt hole) and bolt it to the engine. Then just place the 2nd part of the clamp on and bolt a way.

If you do not want to bend the tab on the bars at the 2nd bolt, you can add a 1/2" spacer between the tab and the engine, but you will need to use a longer bolt.

Ok so that is how the Fehling crash bars made for the non-fairing model can and will fit the Fairing model.

I should tell you that I did NOT cut and wield my bars, after trying them on my bike and seeing how to make them work I am up in the air if I want to use them. Why? because I wanted to use the bars for highway pegs and wind deflectors (leather covers-lowers over them to help with the wind). But after seeing them on the bike they are too small (need higher) and not in the right place (too close to my feet).
I could add on to them (like the Police Bike with the bars that no one can get) but they need to come out more towards the front wheel to do that and after adding all the extra tubing I am not sure the Fehling bars would be a good starting point. I would only be using the mounting points, and we all know the clamp needs to be reworked for that to work.

So if you see a set of these bars on Ebay I have made up my mind...

Sorry no photos, but the mod will work.

If you opt out, no need to spend money on eBay. As I told you when I sent you the bars, that if you came up with something, I'd be your first customer. That offer still stands. I'll buy them back. Let me know if you're going to keep them, and if so, I'll order another set from Germany.
:D
 

MJC

Super Moderator
Bob, PM sent.
I did not mod the bars, just used them for "what needs to be done". If you do the mods (listed above) they will work, BUT only has crash bars for a tip over. I would not add more tubing to them, lights, pegs, etc., They will need a lot more (tubing) added to them and better contact points for that.

I am however, not going to give up, I am still working on something more on the lines of the police bike bars. Yes I know they can not be had, that is why I am working on making them myself. Seeing and having the Fehling crash bars on my bike has giving me a better understanding of how/where to start, just hold on and wait a little longer and I may have something, bolt on by end of summer. BTW, at a lower cost too.
 

burdicda

Member
I have got a reply from the Police CTX700 fairing bike people....
I'm waiting for more info...looks like they found where they came from and are working on an answer for us:

Hey, Danny.

I JUST got a lead on where those crash bars might’ve come from. We didn’t make them, purchase them or supply them – those came from a Honda dealer. I should have some answers to you this week.



Just so I know, which will help me negotiate better pricing, how many sets are you looking at for a potential first order?


Thanks,

Chris Demiglio
Defender Supply
903-771-1654

I told him I do not represent this group for a group buy but when he gets the info I will post it here...
 

MJC

Super Moderator
I have got a reply from the Police CTX700 fairing bike people....
I'm waiting for more info...looks like they found where they came from and are working on an answer for us:

Hey, Danny.

I JUST got a lead on where those crash bars might’ve come from. We didn’t make them, purchase them or supply them – those came from a Honda dealer. I should have some answers to you this week.



Just so I know, which will help me negotiate better pricing, how many sets are you looking at for a potential first order?


Thanks,

Chris Demiglio
Defender Supply
903-771-1654

I told him I do not represent this group for a group buy but when he gets the info I will post it here...

That is good news. When I asked Defender Supply they told me they came from a company in TX and they where made just for them and I could not order a set has they no longer offer the ctx700 bike for sale and they only sold complete units when they did.
After that I called t-rex out of TX and they told me, they may have sold some rear bag guards to D S that looking at the photos I sent, they sure do look like their bars. But the front engine guards with the lights on them did not come from them. I kept calling every place in TX that was listed and no one knew anything about the bars or where I could get them.
I did find a place in Japan that sold ctx700 police bikes to the gov, and they told me the bars come from a place in Japan that got them from a place in Germany. That place ended up being Fehling. My kid who is in the US Amy is posted in Germany and I had her go over to the Fehling company with the photos. They told her that did in fact sell the engine guards to a place in Japan. But that place only got the base pcs un-wielded and they added their tubing for the police bike and brackets for what was going to be used for. She then called the Japan Company and was told Yes they could make her the bars and send them to Germany. The cost was $400, plus shipping to Germany, then the shipping to me in NY. which would have been a total of about $700. Because of the price I did not try it.

After seeing the Fehling bars I can see what the Japan Company would (most likely) have done. Using the 3 points where they go on the bike, a tube would then go from the bolt point in the engine, to the clamp on the frame to the front of the bike, stopping just past the rad. The bracket by the peg would have to be made longer going from the peg to the front of the front of the bike and down about 2". The last tube would have to be bent, going from the lower to upper tubes, making the oval shape that one would install lights or/and lowers on. And that is it! LOL. This is how and what I am working on......

But if you find them and I can just order them, I am in, if the cost is below $200. Which is about the price I will have for metals if I was to make them. So keep us posted!
 

BobWitte

Member
Bob, PM sent.
I did not mod the bars, just used them for "what needs to be done". If you do the mods (listed above) they will work, BUT only has crash bars for a tip over. I would not add more tubing to them, lights, pegs, etc., They will need a lot more (tubing) added to them and better contact points for that.

I am however, not going to give up, I am still working on something more on the lines of the police bike bars. Yes I know they can not be had, that is why I am working on making them myself. Seeing and having the Fehling crash bars on my bike has giving me a better understanding of how/where to start, just hold on and wait a little longer and I may have something, bolt on by end of summer. BTW, at a lower cost too.

Roger that! But as you know, mine is a trike so I'm not needing tip over protection. Although I finally am riding it, I still have much to do before it is "finished" so I'll wait, thanks!:D
 

Duffy

New member
I'm not sure if this is the idea here, but I would like to get a bar mount or set of police type bars to mount a decent size set of auxiliary lights on.

Being so new to this bike I don't even know if the electrical system is strong enough to power two good sized driving lights, plus all the other standard electrical requirements like the head light, battery charging, etc.
 

ofdave

Member
the CTX has the juice you need for decent aux lights.
It may be that you need to refrain from running a bunch of heated gear with the lights on though.
There are many good choices out there for lights, from inexpensive to way overpriced just to have a name brand.
There will be differences between true driving lights for night riding and good lights that help at night and also provide additional daytime conspicuity.
LED lights are a better choice than halogen and don't require a relay, just a fuse. If you add them and want them to be on only if the key is on, using a relay is the way to go. Mine are run from the battery through a fuse with an indicator light next to the switch so I can tell when they're on. A 5 amp fuse handles both 10 watt lights as they each only draw 1.5 amps-that's the beauty of LED.
If you go LED, get CREE bulb lights. A wide choice is available with them. People often confuse the bulb with the manufacturer-CREE does not make lights-only bulbs.
MotoLights is one to check out-can be had from several sources. https://motolight.com/
A lot of guys around here use them on everything from R1200GS, to Harleys, to KLRs.
I am a huge believer in daytime running lights.
 

MJC

Super Moderator
I'm not sure if this is the idea here, but I would like to get a bar mount or set of police type bars to mount a decent size set of auxiliary lights on.

Being so new to this bike I don't even know if the electrical system is strong enough to power two good sized driving lights, plus all the other standard electrical requirements like the head light, battery charging, etc.

The electrical system will work with extra lights. Just make sure you do a volt test to see if the battery is charging when everything is running and you should be fine. You can also mount the diving lights on the front fender. photos here: http://s274.photobucket.com/user/skippy1969/media/Motorcycles/20170412_153244_zpsbetxrefc.jpg.html I do not know that person but you can see how they mounted the lights. You can get cheap lights On ebay, here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-10W-Savi...g-Light-Spot-Durable-/292092142206?rmvSB=true
AND WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
 

Duffy

New member
Thank you. I pick up the red CTX700 today hopefully.

I hurt my hand two dates ago. I had one screw in my end of the beard and my girl friend lifted up her end and my end of the board, and thru end of the board at my end pivoted on the screw, a couple inches up and the end came up like a pincer against the adjacent board, with the side of my index finger getting pinched at the leveraged stop point between the two boards. The skin was pinched in crushed into oblivion right at the contact moment that the leveraged board pushed against the screwed on stationary board. Result; pain, blood, and the end of the work on the fence for a few days.

It is my clutch hand index finger and should not interfere with riding the bike home. Once I have it home I will see how much maintenance can be done by me and my mechanic. Hopefully almost all of it.

What goes into the 800 mile, or whatever, maintenance check up? Is that something I should have Honda do for liability reasons? I have minimal confidence that they could even effectively change a tire.
 

Steven

Member
Okay, I just installed my Crazy Iron Crash bars. It wasn't very difficult and it all looks high quality. I have no idea of how well they do in a crash, and I don't want to know at least not from personal experience. Next are highway pegs and possibly down the road, driving lights. I did kick my feet up on them to check where I need to put the highway pegs and it seems it's really going to add to my comfort with my backrest.

The new Russel Day Long seat is coming along well. I've only gone about 100 miles or so at a time and haven't given any thought to comfort, I guess that's the point. I do like that I can lean back and it gives me a different perspective on the view. The folks I met from Australia told me that it takes 1k - 2k miles before it breaks in and then it gets really comfortable. We'll see...

BTW, my bike is getting really heavy with all the farkles I'm putting on it. One thing that really adds weight are the jfc brackets I bought for the saddle bags. It makes the bike feel heavier when I'm standing still.

After receiving the new spring for the rear shock, the bike is riding the way I want it to, very comfortable. Ironically it got better after I reinstalled all the bags and the weight increased.
 
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