How would you rate the overall ride quality of the CTX700?

I just checked... On the chain side it was 22mm, on the other side it's larger than 25mm. That's all I can tell you. I don't have larger sockets or wrenches. I always used an adjustable wrench.

My guess for the larger one would be 27mm.

It's 22mm & 27mm respectively. I use this old Craftsman adjustable wrench that I finally found a use for. I don't have to take the muffler end piece to loosen the axle. Not I don't torque it back on... 2 grunts do the job. A 1-1/8" socket also works on the 27mm.

Thanks Steve and Randy, but Rebel says it is 21mm. LOL
IMO, the bolt isn't machined to close tolerances and is somewhere in between 21-22mm which of courses means you have to go to the larger dimension. 21mm won't fit and 22mm is a little loose, IMO

Here's something else that is odd. The intake valve adjustment for the CTX is 0.17 +/- 0.02 mm, but I can't find a feeler gauge of 0.17 mm anywhere.

As for the axle bolt, a little loose is all right because all the force is on the other 27mm bolt when tightening. When the 22 mm is snugged up on the swing arm it has enough friction to help it from turning when turning the 27 mm. It works well enough.

After the first time I loosened the bolt there's enough friction on the 22mm chain side that I don't need a wrench on it.

I know the manual gives the torque spec for the nut, by why can't you torque the bolt side? Yes, I know it has a flange, but I don't think the conflict is too significant since the flange on the 22mm bolt head makes the area of friction not much different? Any thoughts?

Well I'm right handed and so it seems more natural to tighten the 27 mm rather than the 22. Like Randy said, the 22 mm seems to hold itself tight.

Merlin III said:

I know the manual gives the torque spec for the nut, by why can't you torque the bolt side? Yes, I know it has a flange, but I don't think the conflict is too significant since the flange on the 22mm bolt head makes the area of friction not much different? Any thoughts?

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There are several sources for friction by attempting to torque the bolt into the nut. ALWAYS torque per specifications. Additionally, be certain to run a wire brush over the threads to clean them up and chase the nut with a tap - dirt and corrosion are not your friends when tightening. One other thing - NEVER lube the threads to be torqued - unless instructed to do so - it is easy to overload the fastener.

I was able to get it buzzy yesterday (had a 300 mile round trip for work)... I found it gets buzzy above 4500 RPM - I did some extended riding (30-60 seconds) in that range and it was noticeable. Below that, there's a surging or it's really smooth. Perhaps it's the higher RPMs that are the issue?

One thing to consider - this IS a torquey motor! You don't need much RPM at all to hit maximum power. Keeping the RPMs down in the 3000-4000 range will give you lots of power and keep it smooth.

I will say that tightening the chain helped. Sometimes it it hard to distinguish between sound and vibration since then are so closely related.

And especially when you consider that vibration begets sound - sound doesn't exist without vibration!