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Michael Moore
Member
At the beginning of 04/2017 I bought a 10,000 mile 2014 CTX with DCT/fairing. I've had one 90 minute ride around San Francisco and down the penninsula a bit and I found the bike fun, and I can't see why some people are so against the idea of DCT or an engine that doesn't have to rev to 13000 RPM to make fun power.
I'm currently waiting for various parts to arrive -- new chain/sprockets, a lightly used Ohlins damper for the back, components to eliminate the rear brake pedal and instead have a master cylinder on the left handlebar and some other odds and ends. I'll do something about improving the forks in the near future. I've had my first experience with pulling the plastic bodywork off and I found that rather traumatic, an exposed fuel tank and a one-piece fairing as was done in the past on so many other bikes are much easier to deal with.
So far, other than the "c'mon Honda, really?" bodywork issues I like the bike. I have no plans for touring or long rides, this is supposed to be a modest project bike that runs frequently, if not always, and let's me try out having a modern street bike.
cheers,
Michael
I'm currently waiting for various parts to arrive -- new chain/sprockets, a lightly used Ohlins damper for the back, components to eliminate the rear brake pedal and instead have a master cylinder on the left handlebar and some other odds and ends. I'll do something about improving the forks in the near future. I've had my first experience with pulling the plastic bodywork off and I found that rather traumatic, an exposed fuel tank and a one-piece fairing as was done in the past on so many other bikes are much easier to deal with.
So far, other than the "c'mon Honda, really?" bodywork issues I like the bike. I have no plans for touring or long rides, this is supposed to be a modest project bike that runs frequently, if not always, and let's me try out having a modern street bike.
cheers,
Michael
welcome, Michael
good choice on the bike
somewhat surprised it needs a chain and sprockets at only 10,000 mi.-maybe poor maint. by the previous owner?
I have a naked and have my own issues with the plastic, but I have a definite advantage over the faired models.
Agree on the DCT-people go nuts over the DCT Porsches and other performance cars, yet they pooh-pooh it on a bike-makes no sense.
good choice on the bike
somewhat surprised it needs a chain and sprockets at only 10,000 mi.-maybe poor maint. by the previous owner?
I have a naked and have my own issues with the plastic, but I have a definite advantage over the faired models.
Agree on the DCT-people go nuts over the DCT Porsches and other performance cars, yet they pooh-pooh it on a bike-makes no sense.
Michael Moore
Member
The chain has been lubed with something that is caked on it (perhaps a chain wax) but it does show signs of kinking and there's a little wear visible on the engine sprocket. 10K is one of those easy to remember round numbers, so I'll go through and do a lot of the normal maintenance items that are coming up right at the start of my ownership. Chain/sprockets, air filter, brake fluid replacement, pull the brake pads to check them and lube the sliding pins in the caliper and so forth, I'll get them out of the way and then hopefully not have to deal with much of anything for several years. Much of what I'm doing would be done no matter what I bought.
Upgrading the suspension immediately is easy to justify, enough people have done it and reported big improvements, I'm willing to act based on their experience.
I'd have preferred a naked or NC but this is what came along first in my area at a decent price/condition and the purchase process was pleasant and easy (I bought it from JeffR at the other CTX forum). Jeff didn't load the bike down with a lot of stuff that I didn't want (the mods are tall Cee Bailey shield with Laminar Lip, Corbin seat, rack, two topboxes (both unlikely to be used), and the Pilot Road 4s have a couple thousand miles of light commuting on them).
cheers,
Michael
Upgrading the suspension immediately is easy to justify, enough people have done it and reported big improvements, I'm willing to act based on their experience.
I'd have preferred a naked or NC but this is what came along first in my area at a decent price/condition and the purchase process was pleasant and easy (I bought it from JeffR at the other CTX forum). Jeff didn't load the bike down with a lot of stuff that I didn't want (the mods are tall Cee Bailey shield with Laminar Lip, Corbin seat, rack, two topboxes (both unlikely to be used), and the Pilot Road 4s have a couple thousand miles of light commuting on them).
cheers,
Michael
BobWitte
Member
Michael: Which Ohlins damper are you planning for your ride? Is it a straight replacement or will you have to diddle with the install? Finally, what improvements do you expect to get from the replacement? TIA!
Michael Moore
Member
Bob, it is the Ohlins STX46 Street for the NC700X, part number HO 070. The HO 070 is a STX 46 Street shock that is a Type Code: S46DR1. The “S” indicates that the shock is a single tube design, the “46” indicates that it has a 46mm piston, the “D” indicates that the shock is a divided piston shock with an internal reservoir, the “R1” indicates that the shock has external rebound adjustment. 312mm long by 56.5mm stroke. That's about 15-17mm longer stroke than the CTX damper but the same compressed length. The Honda manuals say the NC has 5.9" rear travel and the CTX 4.3". The spring rate will vary with the weight of the rider/passenger/luggage that is expected to be the normal load and the shop that provides the damper should get that info so they can provide the appropriate spring. The person who had the damper I'm getting is within about 10 pounds of my weight so the spring should be good.
Lynn in KY had that same damper (with the optional remote ride height adjuster) put on his CTX by a Computrack shop and they told him the increased rear ride height took about 1 degree and 6mm off the original rake/trail numbers, but those new numbers are still not particularly sporty. Lynn said he could notice it being slightly quicker but soon got used to it.
Keep in mind that the NC and CTX share the swing arm, rear rocker and links, fork tubes and fork sliders and it appears the same position on the frame for the upper rear damper mount (as well as most of the main frame). The extra rear travel comes from the longer length/longer stroke damper, and the NC's longer fork travel (5.4" vs 4.2") is from a longer damper rod letting the fork extend farther.
The NC damper does increase the rear ride height some. If a fairly standard rear sag setting is 30%, then the NC is at 4.13" above full bump and the CTX is 3.01" with that, or about 1" difference. You could use a little less preload if you had to get the seat some lower, but withthe difficulty of "posting" on the pegs over bumps with a CTX I'd think it might benefit from the extra bump travel being available.
I've seen a few CTX riders report significant improvements by suspension upgrades and that seems a common thing on the NC forum as well. The rear will help deal with those sharp spikes up your backbone, and taking compression damping out of the forks and getting proper rate springs will deal with the spikes coming up through the hands/arms. There are a couple of similar options on fork mods from Race Tech and Cogent Dynamics. Cogent supplied the Ohlins that I bought.
Lynn told me that stretches of road that had him slowing down 10-20 mph to maintain control are now being taken with no speed reduction and a fair improvement in comfort too. That sounds good to me!
cheers,
Michael
Lynn in KY had that same damper (with the optional remote ride height adjuster) put on his CTX by a Computrack shop and they told him the increased rear ride height took about 1 degree and 6mm off the original rake/trail numbers, but those new numbers are still not particularly sporty. Lynn said he could notice it being slightly quicker but soon got used to it.
Keep in mind that the NC and CTX share the swing arm, rear rocker and links, fork tubes and fork sliders and it appears the same position on the frame for the upper rear damper mount (as well as most of the main frame). The extra rear travel comes from the longer length/longer stroke damper, and the NC's longer fork travel (5.4" vs 4.2") is from a longer damper rod letting the fork extend farther.
The NC damper does increase the rear ride height some. If a fairly standard rear sag setting is 30%, then the NC is at 4.13" above full bump and the CTX is 3.01" with that, or about 1" difference. You could use a little less preload if you had to get the seat some lower, but withthe difficulty of "posting" on the pegs over bumps with a CTX I'd think it might benefit from the extra bump travel being available.
I've seen a few CTX riders report significant improvements by suspension upgrades and that seems a common thing on the NC forum as well. The rear will help deal with those sharp spikes up your backbone, and taking compression damping out of the forks and getting proper rate springs will deal with the spikes coming up through the hands/arms. There are a couple of similar options on fork mods from Race Tech and Cogent Dynamics. Cogent supplied the Ohlins that I bought.
Lynn told me that stretches of road that had him slowing down 10-20 mph to maintain control are now being taken with no speed reduction and a fair improvement in comfort too. That sounds good to me!
cheers,
Michael
Steven
Member
Welcome Alexir11. There are plenty of mods to make the CTX better. Some members here are very good at mods that far exceed the norm. Personally the first mod is to get a center stand and then go from there. If nothing else it makes oiling the chain much easier, but then you could get an automatic chain oiler. To me, a better windshield is next, but then you might have your own preferences...