New Camera

As I've mentioned before I plan on taking a trip next year and wanted to take pictures. I've already mentioned the Soocoo C30 video camera I bought and posted a video for you folks. It's works very well at removing the "shake" and the video quality is acceptable for my needs. I did try it without the anti-shake and the gyro enabled and it was completely unusable, so those two things really make a difference. I quickly realize two things about the camera, first, the battery doesn't last long (about an hour) and the amount of memory it uses up limits how many video's I can take. So, while I will use it, I will use it for only the best scenes that would be better in video. Outside of that I want to take more still shots. With that said...

I also have a Canon SX50 which has a 50x zoom. It's an amazing little camera (for the zoom), but doesn't do well in low light or even moderately low light. It only has a 1/2.3 sized sensor and an aperture range of 3.4 - 6.5. That explains why it doesn't do so well in low light. Many lower priced camera's are similar to this. I've bee a camera buff since I was young, but never really got into photography very heavily. Still, I really appreciate the work of others. There are some really great scenes that require a better camera so I began searching for a better one with low light capabilities. If you're into camera's you'll know what I'm talking about. I needed a larger sensor, more pixels, and a better lens.

First I want to talk about the lens. I reviewed the pictures from many cameras and while many of them seemed very decent, when I began looking at better lens on the very same camera, the difference in quality was huge. It finally sunk in how important that a good lens was. I ordered the Rokinon 12mm F2.0 lens. It's fairly fast so it will work well in low light and being a 12mm it will be good for landscape photos. The reviews on it are very good and the pictures are astounding. The down side is that it doesn't have anti-shake and has to be manually focused. I can live with that for the purpose I need it for. OH, and it is very low priced for the quality of pictures it produces.

Now the camera, I ordered a Sony A6000. It's a mirrorless camera and right now, it's rated one of the best in it's category and affordable. I decide to go with a mirrorless DSL type of camera because I needed it to get the quality lens to get the results I wanted. The one I bought was used and I got it with the small kit lens for just the cost of the body. I wanted the kit lens for general photography because it has all the cool features, but the picture quality is just okay.

I'll fill you in when they come.

BTW, here's a moon shot with the SX50.

Nice photo of the moon. I know little about cameras but if you can take that photo I would say that is a good camera. On videos I would go over to youtube and see the best videos made over there and then ask what they used. keep us posted.

It seems that many people buy into the pixel count, meaning that the more you have the better the camera is. This isn't necessarily true. Here's an example of a picture I took with a previous camera at 7 mega pixels...

And here is another one with the same 7 mega pixel camera.

Sorry, I had to leave to go to the dentist and now I'm back.

A few more pictures... I didn't take these, but it was taken with a similar camera and lens I bought.. I have high hopes for this combination, but I think whomever took these shots knew what they were doing, unlike myself.

not too shabby, steven
aren't those Buzz Aldrin's footprints in the moon shot?

I'm not sure anyone is interested in this, but I got my camera and am trying to figure it out. Here is one picture I took. Since the camera was next to the CTX, I suppose that I could say this was a motorcycle picture of sorts.

Oh, I should show you this one too...

I would be more than happy to share photography with you as I am an avid photographer...but possibly on another forum for photography rather than a CTX700 motorcycle forum....ciao

Sure, but understand that the reason I'm posting this here and now is a prelude a motorcycle trip I have planned next year during which I wanted to document the places I would go. A great many people take these kinds of trips and it's wonderful to see the photographs that they bring back. The pictures I posted now are not really about the pictures, it's about the camera and it's capabilities. Having a good camera during a trip opens up a great many possibilities to have a record of those trips. The pictures I posted (the ones I did) are at best amateurish but they are meant to illustrate how better equipment and how to take photographs can help record the memories of the trip. There was one fellow that recently posted a picture of his bike on this forum in a way that I had never seen before and it looked awesome. It was all about lighting and perspective. I was floored when I saw it and it looked very professional.

The thing is that we all, well most of us, take pictures of our bikes and of where we've been. That's what this thread was supposed to be about. I just don't have enough bike pictures to show what I"m talking about.

Let me give you an example why this is important. Here is a picture of a trip I took a long time ago, my bike (Suzuki) is the one in front. That picture could have been so much better if I had known how to take it and if I had a better camera. Following that picture are two pictures of the CTX that give a different perspective. None of these photographs are good, but they possibly show different possibilities. It's also not just about camera's or pictures, but also about composition and technique, things I really lack, but am interested in. I for one would love to have a picture of my bike sitting next to my tent and an open fire blazing next to that. Until now, I've never had a camera that could take a decent night picture like that. That is what it really all about.

Here's the other thing... I recently threw out almost all of my old photographs. They sat in a box for years and I never looked at them, there was no point in keeping them. I have a few pictures that I really like and they're hanging on my walls in the house. When I look at them, they bring back memories, unlike pictures people buy in the stores to hang on their walls. To me, that's the whole point. After my trip, all I want is one or two really good pictures to frame and hang to remind me of my adventure. There's no point taking them if I'm going to put them in a box. Part of the adventure is learning how to take them.

If you folks don't really want me talking about this, that's okay, my feeling are not hurt. There wasn't really that much going on around here and I thought that anything was better than nothing. I should also add that, in a way, it was motorcycle related since this is something most of us do while taking a bike trip.

burdicda said:

I would be more than happy to share photography with you as I am an avid photographer...but possibly on another forum for photography rather than a CTX700 motorcycle forum....ciao

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Thanks, I really appreciate your offer but I'm already doing that, but I hope you understand that I "know" my pictures are very poor quality, both in composition and image quality, compared to the work of people that know what they're doing. I've never posted on those other sites, but when and if I do, I don't want people to be nice and give me a pat on the back, I want them to tell me what mistakes I had made and how I could have done it better. In the mean time, I've been studying this subject and am totally amazed at how these people do what they do. Most people take snapshots and some people can take the same picture and it looks amazing, that totally blows my mind how they can do this.

BTW, I was over at advride site and searched camera's. I guess it's a big thing over there.

Camera stuff...from one enthusiast to another...

Steven, I can see from your photos that you already understand how to expose a photo using the existing light. Since your enthusiasm had me reading this thread until the end, I'd like to share a tip with you. If your existing camera doesn't have a hot shoe for flash, your next one should. You can then purchase a set of radio triggers and a flash gun (I'm old...still call 'em flash guns) and add light to the shots of your bike. This takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you'll use the technique for the majority of your shots. Using this, you can lift the dark shadows that sunlight causes and bring the exposure of your bike sitting in the shade up to the exposure of the sunlit mountains behind the bike. The possibilities are endless. For example, in the shot below, the sun was coming from the other side of my bike. You can verify this by looking at the bike's shadow. I used my handheld flashgun which was triggered from the camera and attached flash triggers to raise the exposure on the bike to match the exposure of the background. Otherwise, this photo of the bike would have my CTX as dark as that shadow on the ground. I make a habit out of carrying a flash with me whenever I have a camera. (FYI... 10mp Canon G11, Yongnuo 560 flash, and YN 622 triggers. Camera mounted on small travel tripod that I carry on the bike.)

Thanks Rickster, that makes a world of sense. I haven't spent much time using the flash, still have a great deal to learn. I did learn one thing about it... My camera's flash allows me to move it to point upwards or downwards which helps light the whole room including the subject, which is better because it looks more natural. I watch many video's on photography and those people put a great deal of thought into each photo, composition and lighting, which I haven't done yet. I guess I'm waiting for it to sink in. I need to move beyond the shoot from the hip mentality. At this point I'm still shooting and afterwards looking at my photos realizing that I could have done it much better. I'm definitely going to put the things you mentioned on my xmas list. Also, I'm still learning to use my camera and what it's limitations are..


I did get a intervalometer remote. I also got a 12mm f2 lens for astrophotography and a 55 - 200 mm zoom for distance and perspective shots. The kit lens goes from 16mm to 50mm and that is the one I use mostly. I also picked up a ZOMEI Z699 tripod because it fits in my saddle bags. It's a nice tripod except it's not as steady as my other one, due to it's weight and having thinner legs, but at least I can lock it up when I'm away from the bike and it converts to a monopod. I also am getting a few filters together, polarizers and ND filters.

I spend time on National Geographic to see what other people are doing and perhaps learn a thing or two. One of the important things I learned is that while better camera's can take better photo's it's often more about how people use the camera than the camera. I'm seen many great shots taken by lower end cameras and many average shots taken by high end cameras. Another thing I learned is how some photo's are over processed in post, a thing I'm guilty of from time to time. It can lend a bit of artsiness to the photo but can easily be over done. In the end, it's whatever the person taking the picture likes, everyone has their preferences. For instance, I like everything to pop and be vibrant, but many of the photos I like from other people are soft and misty which in itself is very beautiful. I would like to explore that further.

Thank you.

BTW, I really like the composition of your picture.

rickster said:

Steven, I can see from your photos that you already understand how to expose a photo using the existing light. Since your enthusiasm had me reading this thread until the end, I'd like to share a tip with you. If your existing camera doesn't have a hot shoe for flash, your next one should. You can then purchase a set of radio triggers and a flash gun (I'm old...still call 'em flash guns) and add light to the shots of your bike. This takes a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you'll use the technique for the majority of your shots. Using this, you can lift the dark shadows that sunlight causes and bring the exposure of your bike sitting in the shade up to the exposure of the sunlit mountains behind the bike. The possibilities are endless. For example, in the shot below, the sun was coming from the other side of my bike. You can verify this by looking at the bike's shadow. I used my handheld flashgun which was triggered from the camera and attached flash triggers to raise the exposure on the bike to match the exposure of the background. Otherwise, this photo of the bike would have my CTX as dark as that shadow on the ground. I make a habit out of carrying a flash with me whenever I have a camera. (FYI... 10mp Canon G11, Yongnuo 560 flash, and YN 622 triggers. Camera mounted on small travel tripod that I carry on the bike.)

View attachment 591

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I can add a +1 to that idea. I learned this lesson decades ago and especially in the digital age, have since left on my flash for pretty much all shots. Near subjects benefit 100% (as above), distance shots don't matter. Easy peasy!

See... you guys are decades ahead of me, but we all have to start sometime. All I know for sure is that learning is fun and that it goes well with riding the bike to new places. Thanks

Have you ever looked at paintings and wondered why your photos don't look like them? Why do the images that you shoot have much darker shadows and much brighter highlights? It's because your camera by itself, unlike the skilled eye and hand of a painter can not add light to a part of an image that is too dark while still getting a correct exposure for the really bright parts which may include the clouds in the sky, sunlight falling on snow, or bright clothing. The difference between the darkest parts of an image and the brightest is called dynamic range and whether it be film or digital capture, photography at it's current state of the art just cannot get it all without help. That help comes in the form of exposing for the brightest part of your image and using lights to brighten the darkest parts of the image thereby narrowing the dynamic range. When this is done with lights that are not on the camera, the photographer gets to choose where the added light comes from which will give your images a better sense of dimension. Additionally, if your camera is somewhat distant from your subject, your light (s) can be still placed closer to it.

After reading your reply, I have a couple of suggestions for you.. Slow down. Use the tripod because it makes you slow down. Walk your scene before taking your camera out of it's bag to look for different shot angles and perspective. Don't walk fast. Slow down. Bond with your scene a bit before you shoot. See if there is a story to tell rather than just a pretty picture. This means that you have to ....well, yes...slow down. When you do a shot and look at it later and don't feel happy...go back...shoot it again until you can't wait to hang that beautiful thing on a wall! Failure can be a great teacher, but only if you allow it to teach you success. Your enthusiasm is going to move you forward more quickly than you can imagine. Once you've become comfortable with lighting, exposure, camera and techniques, here's what you can spend the rest of your life doing with your camera: Learn to shoot ideas, not pictures...

I'm looking forward to seeing your moto pictures Steven... I don't have a lot of mine here, but there are a couple on my Flickr pages: http://www.flickr.com/rickpappas